My Final Days in Kathmandu
I left off at the Potala Guest House, a place with a nice triple/suite deal that was out of the way from the craziness of central Thamel, we had it dialed in, the staff were friendly & accommodating however they could be and we had established a decent rep. twelve days prior so they hooked us up however they could. After dropping off our laundry I checked into having my ripped backpack repaired, there are embroiderers everywhere and I had an idea I wanted to see if I could materialize. Two hours later after I enjoyed a nap during another rolling blackout I picked up my freshly patched sack with a silver dragon woven onto the center of the top pocket, sweet.
We decided it was time for more dinner and went
to a place recommended by Andy & I's guide from Rainier, Rumdoodles. It did not disappoint, the food and atmosphere as well as the music were top notch, it was a good start but once we left that place it was so late that the pimps were out and they wanted us in their "dance club." Fine, let's check this place out at least for a beer. We got sat down next to the stage and saw a few cute girls in the corner which we assumed were the eventual entertainment, what was currently on stage did not seem very enthusiastic, more like a practice session than a show. Regardless we had some tall beers to finish, next up was a couple, they did a "bollywood-esk" performance basically acting out a love story... it was ridiculous but I was laughing and curious about what might happen next. So now a girl comes out, actually at least acting like she was excited to be there and what had to be the stripper. Well I guess there's two levels in Nepal: Provocative dancing in just slightly more clothing than a bikini; or interaction with a prostitute, because the World's Oldest Profession can hardly be retained. We had no desire to see what might happen next, I was visualizing a love story between a Yak and a Sherpani but upbeat to hi-energy tablas & sitars, who knows.
Anyway we made it home with a few beers and while enjoying these nightcaps on the patio we met Francesca, a girl who just moved to Nepal for the summer from the U.K. - she was by herself and slightly concerned about the power outages and general darkness that is Kathmandu at night. We reassured her that it's way nicer in the daytime & all decided it was time for an early night, we actually had plans tomorrow.
June 4th... I don't think I've mentioned the date for a while. We woke and enjoyed our Hotel's restaurant for breakfast and figured out how we were going to get to the Monkey Temple.
Yes, there is a temple that has promoted monkey population growth in Kathmandu for several years, and seemingly this was one of the most happenin' things (in daylight) goin' on. We walked, took around a half hour until we got directed up & through another temple, apparently the locals point tourists into this place hopeful for donations, we fell for it and it did prove to have some interesting eye candy, just once we got out of there and towards the real monkey temple, Swayambhunath, it was obvious we'd been diverted.
This place was crazy, beggars & touts, hopeful Buddhist zealots attempting to cure whoever however for whatever they can. The monkeys abounded, everywhere, and I only got hissed at for harassment once :) We climbed a gigantic set of stairs till eventually making it to the main courtyard & viewpoint of the shrine, there were a LOT of prayer wheels, I spun everyone I could get my hands on because I felt this was the shit, good karma from a Buddhist temple high above one of the oldest cities in the world. In retrospect (I'm flying out of here in four hours) there have been many points along this journey that karma has gone my way when it didn't have to and I'm hoping for a good finish within the next 30 hours. So yeah,
beyond the main area you end up in a pretty nice central park hilly forest type of spot where the main monastery is, we roamed around this while taunting the monkeys a bit more.
They love it and are just hoping we let our guard down long enough to pick any food out of our pocket. Down the hill we walked, at the bottom we kept spinning prayer wheels since they were on our way but we soon learned that this entire circle around the largest Buddhism complex in the largest city in Nepal has a never ending wall of wheels around the entire base!
Ridiculous, our hands were sore after ten minutes and it went on for 30, I think we had only made it 25% around. We agreed to stop after an apology to Buddha and cabbed it back to the Potala for our afternoon nap.
(Because the cab rides have been so nuts I spent the entire time getting it on film.)
Francesca joined us for dinner at La Dolce Vita, an Italian place with a decent wine list and rooftop dining, it was perfect but once again that ended up being the most relaxing and easy part of the night. After that I insisted we go to the local Shisha (Hookah) Bar, since Andy had never been to one. Well after some debate they finally hooked us up with a mango flavored water pipe and we toked away, somewhat enthusiastically since the bar seemed to be closing and when they finally took our hookah away we bounced from that joint and headed for the Jazz. Of course the bar itself was called Reggae but the Jazz was decent, it was an Asian style bar so we had to remove our shoes and jump up on a platform for our table...we ordered Everest's and after about 15 minutes and the band taking what we thought was a "break"- the actual Army came in and ejected everyone from the establishment. (Luckily we snuck our beers out) - no idea why, maybe along with the dignified "dance club" rules they also don't let people intoxicate themselves in large groups in public after a certain hour... interesting, oh well we made it back to the room and since my back hurt I passed out early from too many painkillers mixed with that little booze, I'm such a lightweight.
The next morning I woke up kind of early, jumped online & contacted my girlfriend, I had felt that it had been too long and it was time to see how she's been doing regardless of how bad the web connection might be. Things get a bit real now, and I'm not going to bore you with details of personal problems, let me just say that my belief that everything back home was under control was not true, I found out my plans for three weeks in Central America & three weeks on the East Coast have been canceled & that Dorothy, who I had planned on spending the next few months unemployed with while she was off on her summer break, was now going home to New Jersey shortly after returning from my supposed final trip away from her. Ouch, that hurt. You see, I've been planning travels and time together with her for three months now and to have the carpet pulled from under my feet that swiftly was quite the surprise. So after spending ten times more money than I spend nightly on my room for a phone call from an actual phone bank I met up with my friends for some errands before they're flight to Hong Kong.
We were joined once again by Francesca, she was working for the summer near Kathmandu & her company had informed her that there were Mao-ist protests going on today and that for our "safety" it would be best that the white people stay in their tourist area. These protests usually just put roadblocks up and march around letting the peeps in charge know that their numbers are growing, problem these days in Kathmandu is that there are no peeps in charge and that "protest" is steps away from invading what leadership infrastructure is in place... civil unrest is never a comfy situation & I'm hoping Nepal handles their issues sooner than later, these things are never good for an economy and the Nepalese Rupee, although we are appreciating to the fullest, has been getting weaker every month.
After transferring our picture chips to DVD, handling some last minute souvenir & gift shopping and enjoying another $3 lunch including Everest Beers & Tequila we made it back for one more nap, it had been a long morning and I was exhausted. We woke around four for our last meal together in Nepal for what will probably be a long time, the Everest Steakhouse, this place had the protein we needed as well as the booze for our goodbye dinner and did not disappoint. After dinner Andy & Jabs spent their time finalizing their bags to be checked to Hong Kong, they had a 36 hour layover which since neither had really been in that country before, were going to live up to it's fullest. Off they went in a cab and I checked into an Internet cafe since it was getting to be time for California to wake up. More time and energy for my love, the cafes close at midnight and that night we had a power outage, also at midnight, so I retired to my room for some brainless TV until I eventually drifted into pill induced haze... my back had not gotten any better and seems to be magnified with time spent on the computer, I'm actually missing NBC Darcy and her ergonomics awareness tips right now, although unless I buy them new furniture it won't make even the slightest difference.
The next morning I moved rooms for my final night in Nepal, (for now) I was leaving the next morning and although extremely comfy with the triple suite, did not need it for what I had planned today. I was going to crank out my blog from Everest today, or at least the text since I hadn't found a decent connection yet. Ugh, as soon as I plugged in I wish I got right into Living The Dream but sadly, that was not the case. Sometime that morning I walked to the Jet Airways office to look into how much it would cost be to pause my ticket, it was in a part of town called Hattari & I needed some air. After some more computer time I decided I needed a break, I was freaking out, as time communicating went on more information came to light I was on the verge of losing it. Yes, I am a control freak, and I had trusted my summer to someone that was changing it without even a discussion... and yes again, she has her reasons. I had room service for lunch and found enlightenment after watching Shrek 3 & looking at my journal... I had written words on the cover, not a lot but very important words, and until that moment I never really knew why I had written them in such an open place. (It was because where I was at mentally, opening my "journal" was not something I would do. I never write in there for frustration, and love for me is recorded differently.) PATIENCE -- WISDOM -- Kindness & Charisma -- TOLERANCE -- Will . . . I started adding words, and then circling them and crossing them out: Petty -- Weak -- Forgetful . . . My hand was lying next to me, it brushed against the still new but friendly coldness of my recently purchased Buddhist Prayer Beads, I grasped them and started counting. I closed my eyes, the TV was still on in credits but it didn't matter, after years in that world I could easily tune it out, I started to put myself into her shoes. I didn't understand but came to grips with the fact that I may never, right now that is not what matters. What matters is that I not handle this the way I've been conditioned to and start a new trend (if need be) for the future. I can control that, and I've absolutely endured what doesn't work when dealing with a long-term relationship. I needed to assess before reacting, and my reactions should be completely calm, controlled, I was getting closer...
I listened to the hammer from afar, my new room was now overlooking the courtyard and I had grown used to the hammer from next door during my afternoon naps, it soothed me without the sleep this time. My adrenaline was still fired up and I was no where near that afternoon nap, in fact I could actually sense the oxygen in this air and longed for the mountains, the thin air that meant I was there and the distinct smells associated with that elevation. I had no idea that my time there might mean the end of what had been my life for the past two years, but maybe that wasn't what was important, I was seeing the past, it was time to look towards the future, she's been alone for a long time now and all she thinks about is the future, life is still life even if I'm taking time off to play.
I was back at the lab listening to music and writing hard, I got most of it done, handled some other correspondence, spoke with her on the most basic level and charged my iPod. It was a mellow night spent mostly recollecting recent memories (for the blog) and eventually, since I spent over twelve hours on the computer that day, passed out stoned on painkillers for my back. (Or was that just what I kept telling myself ;) I had set two alarms as well as informed the hotel staff that I would be departing in the morning. I was up early, caught a cab to the International Terminal and proceeded through more security than I've ever dealt with. Fuck, three times metal detector/bag search/pat down, I'm surprised I was eventually allowed to bring water onto the plane!
Comfortable in Pahar Ganj, Ending in India
Anyway I started the movie Gran Torino but since the flights only 1:15 I never got to finish it, when we arrived in Delhi I passed yet another health screening, hit customs, picked up my bag and caught a cab to Pajar Ganj. It's such a nice feeling to have been at an airport before and have dealt with their rigmarole, makes one so much more relaxed in handling what can be a very stressful process. After checking around at some other hotels I settled back at the RAK International, for the price it still seemed the most reliable. I napped. When I woke I felt hairy, and hot, so I went to a barber & got my head shaved for $1. After watching the gentlemen next to me get shaved I decided I wanted one of those also, another $1 and yes, I watched them put in new blades and clean everything thoroughly...It was AWESOME,
why don't we do this in the states? They do such a thorough job and I added a massage to the mix so when I walked out I've never felt cleaner or more relaxed. Seems my back issue might be able to be worked out, he had gotten into it but I'm thinking this knot might take more than just one massage to work out. I found some Chai & relaxed for a bit with a cup, it was nice being back in Delhi since my memories after Agra turned negative. I went back to hotel just before dark for a shower & dinner, after that I ventured out for a short time of more web but eventual text messaging from my room while watching movies.
I felt like I was getting sick, the next morning I woke up and knew it, I'm thinking mainly from malnutrition since during travels I find myself not eating regularly when moving from one city to the next, but have not ruled out the plane from Nepal being full of sickies as well, or maybe it was something I ate... I spent the morning watching movies in bed but eventually roused myself to walk down to a friends hotel, I knew Alex was down the street so I went to find him, it took about ten minutes. He was in his hotels lobby when I walked in and he heard my obnoxious American accent within seconds :) We swapped stories since we'd parted in Katmandu and got some lunch, he introduced me to the Kitchen Cafe & eventually we ended up wandering the alleys of our hood while handling errands and picking up souvenirs. Around 4pm he headed to the train for his journey to Mumbai the first stage in his eventual goal of Ahman, Jordan two days from today, he was working his way back to Egypt as cheaply as possible. Again I napped, I was meeting Vivek this evening,
a friend of a friend who had helped me research hotels from here in Delhi. That night he found my hotel and we headed out for drinks, I knew the Green Chilly Bar & we acquainted ourselves in person, finally, while drinking some Kingfischers & eating Chicken Tikka. (The only meat I'd had in India to date, kinda like baked boneless Chicken Wings.) I think we made it till midnight, he was a nice guy who I felt fortunate to have met and wish we would have gotten together sooner, he helped me understand certain habits from the Indian perspective which can be very challenging for a westerner. After verifying my flight at some random web cafe we said our goodbyes and I made it back for a hard night of restless sleep.
The next morning I had some errands I wanted to finish, my man-bag needed mending, I needed pills for the flight since I'd exhausted my valium in the mountains & if I could find something for this cough that would be great, and I wanted to see one more sight, the India Gate.
I hired a tuk-tuk to take me roundtrip, I'd heard this sight is an easy one to knock off and I felt I had barely seen anything in Delhi so after 20 minutes we were there. I saw the President's House, plenty of a better part of Delhi with manicured lawns and security, and a huge archway similar to the Arch de Triumph named the India Gate. It was fine, I was sick and tired so after taunting the touts we tuk-tuked it back to Pahar Ganj where I picked up my mending and had some lunch. I had paid the hotel for a late checkout so I spent my final hours packing my bag and showering (yes, multiple times) before I was checking out and heading to the airport for my 10:30pm flight to Newark.
After walking through what turned into one of the craziest parades ever, (if only for the narrowness & conditions of the streets) 
I took another tuk-tuk, I should have taken a taxi but this guy was adament & an hour later we finally pulled up to IGI (India Ghandi International) Airport. Security was more organized so once through I charged my phone and pod while trying to figure out the best foods I could bring onto the plane.
I took another tuk-tuk, I should have taken a taxi but this guy was adament & an hour later we finally pulled up to IGI (India Ghandi International) Airport. Security was more organized so once through I charged my phone and pod while trying to figure out the best foods I could bring onto the plane. I had no appetite but made attempts, it was not happening, I was a mess. I ate the antibiotic I'd obtained for my cough, the benedryl I'd saved for my head, took pain pills for my back & swallowed valium while sucking on cough drops just before entering the plane... is anyone doing the math here?
After what seemed like an hour taxi the Boeing 777 took off and I was immediately in the planes bathroom relieveing myself of everything I'd eaten that day as well as the pills. Don't take medicine on an empty stomach, especially when you feel like crap! I pushed the airplane food into my mouth and swallowed as much water as I could, simply took two valium and woke up with two hours left till Newark, (14 hour flight) apparently I was exhausted.
We arrived and I cruised through immigration at Newark International, I had an eight hour layover till my flight to San Diego so I immediately hit the Continental counter, and yes they had an 8:30am flight I could fit onto, awesome. I waited and had some McDonalds, I hate McDonalds but that bagel sandwich went down smooth and gave me the energy to make it onto my final flight, which was delayed an hour due to fog. After the longest flight across the country I've ever made we landed in SD and I cabbed it back to my place, I missed home pretty bad this time and although I was sick as a dog I was amped to be in my space. After unpacking I showered and Dorothy was home, she immediately recognized that I was sick and insisted I take it easy, I listened to her on many levels while the 1st of many naps in my jet-lag recovery began.
The next morning I went directly to my doctor, he agreed that I may have contracted some sort of parasite so I was directed to produce specimens for testing. After turning them in, forcing down some toast and banana (for the meds) & getting a little rest I felt a lot better, so much so that the quarantine placed on me by my family was lifted and I was able to spend Friday night with Avery... she seemed to enjoy the gifts I had gotten her but who ever really knows with a little girl pushing two years old? I continued to get good rest, spend time with Dorothy & find windows of energy for the fam throughout the weekend, today is Monday and I've been home five days. I'm hopefully a little closer to an answer from my love than before I returned but it's the kind of thing that can not be defined, it just needs to be lived.. I'm not sure when or if the next blog will materialize but until that point it's been fun and I've enjoyed your attention.
Till next we meet remember, Carpe Diem!
Re-read 8 years later.. I'm still so proud of 2009
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