Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Joshua Tree Reunion, San Jacinto Snow & More Plans

I've been in San Diego almost three weeks...
This is the longest I've spent in one place in five months...
I'm starting to freak out, it's time to get away...

Luckily my old friends Melissa & Mike, who now live in Tucson, have planned a get-together in one of my favorite places, Joshua Tree National Park. Even more fortunate, Dorothy has the entire week off for Spring Break. We packed the truck & departed the morning of April 8th, our first stop was Big Bear, I was hunting for the perfect jacket for Rainier in these mountain towns since the San Diego area had packed all of their cold weather gear up for the springtime. No luck up here either, this area only sells ski gear which is totally different from what I’m looking for, I found the one mountaineer supply store and he said my best bet would be in the town of Joshua Tree, another Nomad Ventures I had already planned on checking out. Once Dorothy & I stopped by a few more shops & the resorts we started our eastward drive toward the Mojave Desert.

When we were about to start down the grade, while searching for random wood we found a nice couple who were building a log cabin, they directed us to their current residence where we loaded the truck with as much fuel for a fire it could hold. At 8000 feet the mountains were freezing, we had already abandoned our original plan to camp that night in Holcomb Valley (near Big Bear City) & it wasn’t hard to predict that even in the desert, wherever we set camp would be a cold one. Down out of the north side of the San Bernardino Nat’l Forest we went, a very easy way since we were only dropping a few thousand feet, just over an hour later we were at Vons in Yucca Valley stocking up with food, water & booze for the next five days. After this I made a final stop at the two different Joshua Tree outfitters and although Nomad had a jacket that would suffice, I decided then and there to drop the loot on exactly what I was looking for with Patagonia directly.

We were the first to arrive at Jumbo Rocks Campground, our intended home for the next few days, and since we were arriving so late in the afternoon it seemed pretty bleak that we would be able to score even two of the hoped for five campsites in the same general vicinity. We made camp that night in a loop that seemed like it might clear out.

After unloading the truck and making camp we had some dinner, some wine, and started walking around the sites checking the tags for departure dates… it wasn’t looking good for this loop. Anyway we drank a bunch of wine, spoke with a neighbor for a bit and eventually passed out on what turned into being the coldest night of our stay. (We slept right through it, yeah Vino!) The next morning we both got up and started roaming through some of the other loops, the next one over was clearing out and after speaking with some of its inhabitants this turned out to be the place, campsites 20 – 24. We moved our site into the middle of it all and started blocking parking spots and dropping random gear on all the picnic tables. No worries, it was time to do some of that chillin’ we had been looking forward to. I rode my dirt bike around a little to search for a cell signal (no luck) and eventually took my truck out to the park boundary for a call to Melissa & AA sometime in the afternoon. I got through and let them know where we were, asked that an email be sent to the group with my weather update/location and came back to Jumbo. I decided no more driving since that roundtrip took almost two hours. (I had also called Patagonia to order that jacket ;) It was time for a beer. It was also time for Andie & Taj from Sherman Oaks to arrive, good timing too since I was tired of getting the evil eye from everyone driving by that were searching out sites for the Easter weekend. While she unloaded her car we entertained her soon to be six-year-old son (the next day was his birthday) on the rocks, I had wanted to check out this one spot all evening and since someone else was now occupying 20-24 we were good to go. We had a blast roaming next to the giant monoliths as the sun went down, J-Tree is just one big playground and if you have a headlight the darkness can be just as exciting. That evening we roasted some Hebrew Nationals over our fire while waiting for Mike, Melissa, Maggie (11) & the newest addition at six months old, Melody. Andie had enlightened us that a few more people had dropped out due to weather concerns and I had judged that the 4M’s would be arriving around midnight, I think they beat that guestimate by an hour or two. They arrived with a packed car and we all assisted however we could while reacquainting ourselves and watching out for the children. After getting everything set up & a few more logs on the fire we called it a night.

The next day after another good nights sleep Mike & I took off to the Split Rock Area to climb a few decent pitches and do some recon for the kids climbing planned for the following morning. A few hours later we were back and others had arrived, my old friends Missy & Nick had flown to LA from Northern Cali and arrived by rental car. After that Pat & Mike showed up from OB and then from San Luis Obispo Lisa, Dominique, their two year old daughter Lucy & five year old Luna (Missy & Nicks daughter). Eventually Adam & Danielle arrived from San Diego & after getting everyone’s tents set up, cars unloaded & witnessing a beautiful sunset... we got down to some serious drinkin’ – Vodka seemed to be the most popular since the wind had seriously picked up when the sun was going down. It was a good night with lot’s a reminiscing and laughter, the crew one by one drifted back to their tents as I eventually did, although I don’t remember.

The next day (Saturday) we woke up late (or just in time) for breakfast, Josh (Andie’s Man, also from Sherman Oaks) & his bro Chris (San Diego) had arrived late night, this morning it was time to set up a rope for the kids to play around on. Mike and I did that across the street and finally AA, Jenny & their two year old daughter Lilyana arrived to make our party/reunion complete. After a few hours of climbing Mike & I did another more difficult route that his daughter free-soloed around to meet him at the top of, she’s gonna be good. After that we made it back for some happy hour brews and sandwiches with AA & his ladies. They were only there for the day and unfortunately they left as the sun was going down. A little later we got together for dinner, most peeps had brought taco fixin’s, then the night becomes blurry again. I know there wasn’t much hard stuff involved since we’d drank most of it the night before but there was plenty of beer & picture taking. The last thing I remember from that evening is the mom’s handing us all egg’s and telling us to hide them around the campsite for Easter morning.

Sunday arrived and with it another beautiful day, we got pretty lucky with the weather since all it ever did was threaten & get a little chilly, no gale force winds or torrential downpours to endure this time around making Mike & Melissa’s 1st wedding anniversary/reunion a smashing success. We had one more stint of climbing for the grown-ups at intersection rock before heading back to San Diego for a quick shower and turnaround to my sister’s house for Easter Dinner. After getting there late and realizing we were exhausted we thanked them for the food and made our way home for some couch time and an early night.

The next few days I did some more studying, organized my pictures from the weekend and prepared for Jablow & I’s annual “End of Tax Season” Retreat, this year we were going to need crampons since our goal was the summit of Mount San Jacinto and it had four feet of snow on top of it. On April 15th our friend Dave showed up and started us on the sauce a little early, eventually we joined up with Jablow, Pat & some others for some food at the Arizona Café & drinks at Tony’s – I called it an early night since I was stoked to get out of town and start testing my new gear the next day.

April 16th arrived; I woke Jablow up in our spare room and got on the road north and east towards Idyllwild. After picking up supplies and obtaining our permit we parked the car, packed our bags and started the four mile uphill to Strawberry Junction, our intended campsite for the night. It was brutal with a hangover and an exceptionally heavy pack since I was carrying my new ice boots, so once we found our site it was time to chill. The next morning I donned a somewhat heavy pack & put on my new plastic ice boots for the 5.5 mile hike to the summit. This was also brutal, the boot itself was burly but I came to the conclusion that if I’m walking on flats & rocks, rather than straight uphill in the snow, I need a more flexible ankle. We attached our crampons and after what seemed like forever finally made it to the top for some hot noodles and a view of Palm Springs & her golf courses, the Coachella Valley with its hundreds of windmills& the desert that is Joshua Tree. Because it was so clear I could actually pick out different familiar rock formations within the park, I had been on San Jacinto twice before and had never seen so clearly! The summertime smog has kept me blind to this spectacle & now I’m feeling even more inspired to make winter ascents of these southern peaks. Since the sun was waning we started our descent, we had taken too long to summit so we had to boogie down the mountain. Crampons are fun and make one feel much stronger when pushing through heavy snow. Glissading is the mountaineering term for sliding down the mountain on your ass using an ice ax or trekking pole to stop yourself if you get going too fast, we experimented. After an hour or so we knew we would be good since we had found the trail and the GPS had not let us down. We filled up our water at a spring and made it back to our camp just after dark, slammed a flask of tequila Jablow had brought along and made some veggies with couscous for dinner.

The next morning my feet were sore. Most everything I had brought along to “test” had worked out; the pants, jackets, socks, climbing, cooking & sleeping systems were doing well but one thing was troubling me, I had formed “hot spots” on my shins from rubbing in my boots. I decided to wear the new boots the rest of the four miles down to the car for additional breaking in, now I formed blisters on my shins, great. This was why I was out here, to figure out what works and what doesn’t… I decided that overall I was doing OK but I needed to address other footwear options so my first priority upon returning would be researching that. Now it was time to check out the Stone World Bistro & Gardens, a newer establishment in Escondido and an expansion from one of my favorite local breweries. A few hours, a damn fine burger and many dark beers later we were basking in the sunshine of a wonderful Saturday afternoon. That evening, after a nice nap, I organized my pictures from the last few days and had a great nights sleep in what I’m truly appreciating as my own bed these days.

Life is funny, and this lifestyle is extremely liberating, big plans are getting made and decisions about what comes next are cropping up more and more often. April 20th is a day Dorota & I have designated to celebrate our anniversary, it’s been longer but in the beginning we had some “complications,” for lack of a better word, so exactly when has never been truly distinguished. That day we spoke about it, the conclusion that we came up with is that this summer may be our last summer (for a while) to “play” – I’m hoping to be employed and with that I may lose these freedoms, we spoke about engagement, marriage, a new place to live, children, the Future in general, our future together, we decided to take full advantage of her summer break. In my entire career summer’s have never been an easy time to take more than a week off, it’s my profession, nights and weekends become the norm and summer breaks are for the tenured. I don’t have a lot of money left but I do have the time and (I know your tired of hearing this) “you only live once” – we’re going to southern Mexico and Central America for three weeks. From Cancun we’ll be flying to Norfolk, Virginia for a week on the Outer Banks, and eventually spending a few weeks in Pennsylvania & New Jersey (where we’re from) with friends and family. After that I should be ready for work, since Alaska fell off the drawing board I’ve been looking to fill that gap and now I’ve done it with the one person I consistently feel bad about leaving.

I’m worried about my feet, my shins now have scabs from the weekend’s abuse and I’m not any closer to a solution. Long story short, after stressin’ for two days I’ve decided to buy an additional pair of synthetic “leather” boots with a little more flexibility than the plastics. Of course I can’t afford it but the beauty of REI is their return policy, and trust me at least one of these pairs of boots are going back.

Today we received a call from the Ranger assigned to our parties reservation, seems our determination to do a the classic route “Liberty Ridge” is not as easy as we thought, an additional 13 miles hiking each way may be required since the road may be closed at the park boundary. Mount Rainer National Park had plenty of snow this winter, awesome, I guess the good part is this isn’t my problem and it just adds that much more excitement. I’ll keep doing research, studying my rescue techniques and training whenever possible. I’m doing a bike & camp trip on Mount Laguna finishing up on the Noble Canyon trail this weekend, good cardio, my lungs need all the help they can get. After that I have less than a week before my departure, I’ll keep up the cardio & studying, eat lots of carbs, make sure all of my bills are handled and verify I have every possible piece of equipment necessary to help me get up this enormous climb.

It's surreal; Rainier will be the most physically demanding climb of my life and within a week of returning I’ll be traveling through India & Nepal on my way to Everest Base Camp, a walk-up requiring no special equipment, to hopefully witness the “Roof of the World.”

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Ocean Beach: Preparation, Billy Joel & Training

As concluded in my last post I'm home in San Diego, and my main concern is being ready for the next few months.
I have March 23rd through May 1st to prepare for the two most major adventures in my adult life so far:

1) Climbing Mount Rainier, a 14,411 foot volcano two hours southeast of Seattle in the Pacific Northwest’s Cascade Mountains.






2) Traveling to the Himalayas in Nepal & trekking to Mount Everest’s Base Camp, the most remote journey of my life which will take me as high as 18,448 feet potentially for a view of the largest mountain in the world.


I immediately felt like I didn't have enough time. I'm not significantly out of shape but with all of this travel I haven't been maintaining any sort of consistent aerobic exercise except for walking, which isn't enough. People actually die on Rainier, they get lost in sudden blizzards because their oxygen deprived brain is not thinking clearly and therefore stupid decisions get made. I don't want to be one of those people, I'm lucky enough to have friends willing to guide me up to this amazing vantage the least I can do is be as prepared as possible when the time comes.

My first week back stateside I spent my afternoons casually sifting through my pictures, recollecting my recent travels and chillin’ out while my evenings were spent catching up with family & friends, usually over dinner. I then switched into business mode, almost like I was clocked in during business hours getting as much done as possible while the rest of the country was awake. Initially I needed to figure out where I stood financially, so I deposited my unemployment checks, some birthday checks (thanks Mom & Dad) & my tax refunds… I was doing OK, which is good since to even attempt a climb as serious as Mount Rainier I would need to spend at least $1000 on cold weather climbing gear. Next I needed to figure out a few plane tickets. It didn’t take me long to realize that since I have the luxury of time for another trip to Asia I would not need to spend the $1500 that my employed travel partners spent on round-trip tickets from LAX to Kathmandu, the destination airport which is where you catch a smaller plane to Lukla, which is the launch point for Everest Base Camp. (This pic is Mount Everest as viewed from a summit near the Base Camp)
I have always been intrigued by India, and after a small amount of research I came up with the idea of flying to New Delhi & traveling overland into Nepal & eventually Kathmandu to meet my two friends Andy Gough & Scott Jablow. I found a ticket for $990 from San Diego to New Delhi, buying that was the easy part, figuring out the Indian Embassy’s Visa requirements did not prove as simple. $150 & many phone calls later I was Express mailing my actual passport, a signed form, money orders & passport photos to an agency in San Francisco that India has outsourced their Visa services to, Travisa, who although expensive proved to be very helpful. On many of these forms they ask your profession, and although I’m laid off I’ve always put down “TV News” without a second thought, India needs additional paperwork documenting that you are not entering their country for media purposes. So after a few more phone calls we decided to change my employment status to “unemployed,” which makes things simpler but adds an element of uncertainty to my return. Now when I arrive in India if I don’t have a return ticket they will insist on checking my bank account to make sure I have enough funds to return home. Yes, they are that thorough.
While that was going on I was working on another plane ticket, to Seattle the launching point for Mount Rainier, this one was easy since the dates are fixed by my friends/guides schedules. I found a round-trip ticket from San Diego to Seattle for $160 May 2nd through May 9th, sweet & easy, domestic flights seem so simple and predictable now after dealing with so many complications overseas.

Now I know what you’re saying, all work and no play make Jason a dull boy, true, true. It’s Friday March 27th, I’m realizing my fun is different now but I’m trying to retain the good parts of who I was and mixing it with new things. My girlfriend & her friend Kristin had some extra tickets to see Brett Dennen at the House of Blues so I spent a Friday night downtown having good beers at the Yardhouse & picking the brain of Kristin’s boyfriend Neil, who just happens to be an Indian who spent some of his youth growing up in that country. (Oh yeah, Brett Dennen was OK too, more for the ladies but whatever) The next day I had big plans, I really needed to figure out my Mountaineering boot situation so Dorothy & I planned on getting up early and going to the REI Used Gear Sale in hopes of finding some cheap stuff. I didn’t find shit but my lovely Dorota found a great winter jacket as well as some other items she’s needed. We moved on, I tried on some plastic boots & picked up some other random gear at Nomad Ventures in Escondido, and then we hit the Golden Egg, a great omelet spot for breakfast.

At this point I called my Mom and asked her on a “date” for that evening since she was the person who introduced me to Billy Joel, he was playing with Elton John that evening in Anaheim, the show was sold out but I wanted to try to get in. Followers of this blog might remember when I was leaving Jono in Seoul we had a final night of partying, these two musicians played a major role in that evenings excitement and to sum up I had noted in my calendar that this show was happening two months later, tonight, and I wanted to take my Mother. She agreed to me picking her up later that afternoon and after a few hours in the truck we rolled into the Honda Center parking lot, home of the Mighty Ducks. It was a tough ticket to obtain, the scalpers were out in full force and my normal spot to score reasonably priced extras near Will Call was reminiscent of a ghost town. After about 30 minutes we had the idea to try the ticket window, I know, crazy, but it ended up working out. The cashier woke up and searched the system for two seats; she seemed surprised that there was an opening in a decent section and told me I would not do better than these for $100 each… OK then, I told my Mom happy 60th eight months early ;) and into the show we went. Our seats were good, upper level but directly over Billy’s left shoulder with a perfect view of his fingers on the keys. He & Sir Elton opened the show with a few songs together, Elton John played a full set, Billy played a full set & then they did six encores together to close up the show. It was phenomenal, no set break required for these two old guys to catch their breath. Billy had apparently had a few while waiting his turn which made the Piano Man (the final of the six song encore) even more appropriate. (I’m guessing the microphone smells more like liquor than beer these days though) It went on for over four hours making this high priced ticket well worth the money, and I’m still trying to figure out how after hundreds of concerts I’ve never seen either of these gentlemen live.



Right on! The show ended and after a short wait in the lot we exited into Anaheim and eventually were headed south on Interstate Five back to San Diego. My Mom seemed pleased & I was impressed that two seventies musicians can still rock that hard, if you ever get the chance I highly recommend.

The next day after a good night sleep Dot & I joined Scott for a three hour hike in Mission Trails; I donned a 40 pound pack to make it more strenuous, this was the beginning, I needed to start doing serious cardio as much as possible. I had just over a month & the only thing standing in the way of working out was my desire to get off the computer.

Getting off the computer required many things…
- I needed to finish my pictures, of course they could wait but getting those albums saved on my hard drive and uploaded while it’s still fairly fresh in your head makes it a ton easier.
- Then of course there’s this blog, everyday I felt things from New Zealand slipping away as I reminisced with old friends & researched future journeys.
- I had a TON of research to do for mountaineering purchases, I needed to buy: Boots; Pants; Synthetic Down Jacket; Ax; Crampons; assorted climbing gear; cold weather protection; waterproof bags
- Along with all of this gear one needs to obtain the knowledge to use it, so now after thirteen years out of college I’m studying again, reading mountaineering protocol’s & specifics about Rainier, it’s weather and traveling on glaciers.

I know what your thinking, tough life; most people have to do all of this stuff while maintaining 40 hour work weeks… or do they? I’m starting to think not. Who really is “most people” that do these things? How dare I have anxiety over spending most of 2009 unemployed when most serious travelers & climbers aren’t working when they’re doing it correctly, right? To truly take it seriously means full concentration and minimal distractions.

I spent the next week getting all of the record keeping out of my head in order to make room for new travel information. In the evenings I was doing whatever exercise I could and spending quality time with my girl, getting to bed early so I could live every day to its fullest. Around April 1st my Passport with an Indian Visa showed up and I immediately turned it back around to the Nepalese Embassy in New York City, same requirements but for $40 instead of $150, so my awesome scorecard of where I’ve been in the world is gone again via secure mail – it was back within two days. These countries Visa’s take up full pages in your passport making it extra special… I now had everything for my May 13th through June 10th vacation under control; Round-trip airfare to New Delhi, Indian & Nepalese Visas; Jablow buying our Kathmandu to Lukla plane tickets; and an India Lonely Planet to solve any questions I might have over the next month and a half. Yeah I need accommodations and train/bus reservations but the hard parts I need to handle from afar are over, I need to move on to Rainier.

I finished uploading my picture albums to Picasa http://picasaweb.google.com/jguinter & Facebook, paid all of my bills, posted my final blog from “down under” and got down to outlining all of the information I would need to ingest over the next month and a half. Our living room table is a constant jumble of maps, guidebooks & paperwork – I love it, Dottie probably hates it but knows I need to be able to jot things down or answer questions for myself when the thought strikes since I might forget it. I research what I still need, read about crevasse rescue and train whenever I can, still spending my evenings with my family and Donia or heading out somewhere in Ocean Beach for pitchers and/or music.

Overall things seem under control, I’m spending some good time lately watching Avery grow up; it’s nice being around during this age and helping my sister whenever possible.
We leave for a long Easter Weekend over Dorothy’s spring break to get away & see old friends, I’ll pick up there with the next post.

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

The North Island, Rotorua & Auckland

This is the last chapter of New Zealand.
A few things I’ve learned: If you’re coming here and plan on seeing the North Island, do it first and allow enough time for travel. The beauty of the South Island as a whole greatly surpasses that of the North. The North Island is amazing in its own way, it just takes a little more work to find these special places. We had allowed for basically three days to sight see Auckland; I had been told that Auckland is a shithole so had made plans to take an overnight trip to a town four hours away by bus, Rotorua, an area known for its hydrothermal activity.
The final preparations I made in Queenstown were booking our first nights accommodations at the BASE ACB in Auckland, purchase our round trip bus tickets to Rotorua and our nights stay at the Hot Rocks BASE Hostel in Rotorua.The next morning was March 19th; departure is at 12:30 from Queenstown’s four gate airport. We had a few hours to kill so on Dera’s recommendation I hit a reasonably priced heirloom shop to pick up a few more gifts for the family. I then headed back to our lodge, made sure I had everything packed appropriately and we caught a cab to the airport. After a few hours wait and a two hour flight we landed in Auckland, caught the “Air Bus” into downtown and found our hostel. Dera had plans to meet an old family friend, so off he went. I then started looking for a friend I had known in San Diego, Justin Sadgrove, whose contact information I had obtained when he emailed my NBC account a few weeks prior to my getting laid off. That contact info got lost with the email account, but I texted Pat in Ocean Beach who spoke with Troy, who then called Johnny in Santa Rosa who emailed Justin & me that I’m looking for his kiwi ass. After wandering the downtown area for an hour or so I got back to a computer and Justin had emailed me back! He knew right where I was, came into town and joined me at my Hostel’s Bar… we had a few.
Once primed we headed out to a club he knew named the “White House,” a fine establishment that we tipped a few more back at. The evening gets a bit blurry here; on our way back towards my part of town we stopped into a music festival, that didn’t last very long; after that we hit an Irish Pub, where shots proved to be the end of me. I had to get up for an 8am bus so I said my goodbyes to Justin, got a late night gyro and passed out.The next morning we made it to our bus, and four hours later after a spectacular drive through the countryside, we found ourselves in Rotorua, a town that seems to travel as much in the air & water, as over the land. Once checked in to our hostel we wandered Kuirau Park, just across the street and full of bubbling mud and steaming springs.
It was quite a sight, seems that this type of activity is pretty normal around here and after some time strolling through the park I found some nice pools just the right temp for taking a dip.
On we went, just a day in Rotorua meant that we only had so much time to see the town… our next stop was Lake Rotorua which was nice enough, filled with ducks & geese, but it seemed the light would be better for pictures if we waited till closer to sunset. It was time for lunch, we feasted on some of that famous New Zealand Salmon we’d kept hearing about, it was worth the wait. After that we headed back to our hostel for some relaxation, the Hot Rocks BASE actually has its own natural indoor hot spring pools and a nice outdoor pool, I indulged.
Once the light was right we headed back to town for a few more souvenirs, and then the lake for some shots in the dwindling light.
From there we went back to that park and took some more pictures of a huge pool we hadn’t seen the first time, dusk was the perfect time for viewing, but again hot steam doesn’t like expensive cameras so we didn’t get too creative. After this, since it seemed like our last night to “feast” on this wonderful New Zealand Beef, we did, and my rib-eye was great. Once back at the hostel I chatted with a few Canadians I’d met until tired from the long day, and passed out like a baby.
Dera had decided to catch the early light and with it an earlier bus home, I was determined to see a geyser, and with it an entire thermal park. I caught a bus; first stop was the largest thermal mud pool in the Southern Hemisphere, the Wai-O-Tapu Mud Pool.” After this was the “Lady Knox Geyser” which goes off at 10:15am everyday with a little nudge from the locals. Basically “she” would naturally go off every 48 to 72 hours, a large window of time which wouldn’t prove nearly as lucrative as when the locals “prime” the explosion with 300 mg of soap every morning creating the consistency that brings the buses and their inhabitants.
From here I spent the next few hours touring this thermal wonderland which I imagine is quite close to Yellowstone, but I’ve never been.
The
multiple colors created from the different mineral elements being brought to the surface were amazing;
Sulphur, iron oxide, manganese, ferrous salts & silica all create visions with names such as the “Artist’s Palette,” the “Champagne Pool” & the “Devils Bathtub.”
A quick trip back to town and I was chillin' at the nicest bus stop ever, it had it's own hot spring for dipping tired feet while awaiting the next "coach" as they refer to them.
Four more hours back and I was in Auckland, got an email from Justin and he directed me to the harbor for a ferry ride across the bay towards his area of town where I caught an amazing sunset.
After a bus and a short taxi I was at his house in Mirangi Bay enjoying some more prime New Zealand shiraz & steak grilled on the "barby."
I had not realized the difference home cooking can make, and as a bonus I met Priscilla, my friend's
"Mum." That night turned into beers at a few local establishments in "Browns Bay," once we closed them down we started a long walk home hoping to flag a cab. Justin, who had recently heard a story on the news where a kid was getting charged with assault for "chucking" a hedgehog at the plaintiff, had found his own hedgehog, and in the process of attempting to pick it up for a throw the damn thing popped a spine at him so he gave up and joined me in the cab. I passed out at his place and woke up quite foggy the next morning wondering how far and how long it was to my hostel, and my stuff.
We made it onto a bus and a half hour later made it into the BASE for checkout. Dera had some sightseeing to finish, and he was pretty jazzed to get to the airport early, so we decided to meet at the gate while I spent the afternoon with Justin seeing some more Auckland sights. We wandered over the old Grafton Bridge which had a nice view, caught a Cricket game in the "Domain," kind of a Central Park, and finally having a nice brunch in an area called Parnell. My last hours in Auckland included picking Avery up a nice wooden toy, mailing postcards, having a beer and burning all of my pictures to DVD as a backup. I said my goodbyes to Justin and made my way onto the "Air Bus" for a quick ride to the International terminal. There was a line but I scored a great seat with some nice Texans to chat with, and after a sweet eight hour nap I was at LAX going through customs to the waiting arms of my girlfriend. (She was great enough to drive up and get us, we talked so much during the drive I barely remember the ride home!)
Here I am, home for five days now, I've done nothing but chill and catch up on correspondence. I'm prepping for climbing Mount Rainier in early May while handling Visa requirements for India & Nepal mid May through mid June. Lot's of work for an unemployed guy, plenty of i's to dot and t's to cross, let's hope I get them all.
Till next time friends, Cheers!

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Driving the South Island, HELI-MTN BIKING & Glaciers

Now we drive, that's the plan. Drive and take pictures, sight-see, maybe eat once and a while. Before formally leaving the Mount Cook area we headed to the Sir Edmund Hillary Alpine Center to snap a few shots of the statue & check out the history behind his time in the area... He's the man, I'll leave it at that. We departed, filled up gas in a town called Twizel (I'm only mentioning it because it's a funny name, get used to it) and proceeded down the road. Dera had a bit of a lead foot so one of the two Highway Patrolmen we've seen in two weeks on the island waved us to the side of the road. We were clocked at 114 . . . Kilometers per hour, 14 over the posted speed limit and Dera got issued a ticket which is payable in the largest bank in the country, I thought that was a little shady. Anyway on we went, drove past a ton of lakes & dams, alongside huge rivers towards the East Coast. Along the way we came upon some signs of the earliest inhabitants of that part of the country, the Takiroa Rock Art Site… neat, on we went. Once and a while Dera gets tired so we pull over for coffee, I learned the Kiwi’s call speed bumps “judder bars” – funny. Our next stop was the Moeraki Boulders, over time the weather & sea have eroded the cliffs here revealing almost perfectly round boulders. They were cool, over even more time the boulders become broken apart by the sea, it was a nice beach but an overcast day so after snapping a few shots we continued on… to Dunedin.

This is the largest city on the southeast coast, a college town and home to the steepest street in the world. (According to the Guiness Book of World Records) Baldwin Street is steep, we drove up and walked back down, and up. Again on an overcast day the novelty wears off quick so he headed into town to check out the “Octagon” as they refer to their circular street engulfing the cities center. It looked like a great place to get drunk but we were on a mission, I wanted to see the Blue Penguin! Onto the Otago Peninsula we drove, the road was incredibly windy and only a few feet above the bay at most points. After driving through many small villages and about 40 minutes we made it to the Royal Albatross Centre, which is where you park above Pilot Beach, home to a flock of around 80 Blue Penguins. We were too early, I was told they show up around 4pm (after hunting in the ocean) but that’s the Yellow-Eyed Penguin, which is located on another part of the island I guess, so we checked out a few Albatross this being the world’s only mainland Albatross Colony. Whatever, I was there to see the penguin so we proceeded back the peninsula to the village of Portobello which was reputed to have internet, but it was closed. We wanted to handle our sleeping accommodations for that evening while killing time before the penguins came home, which we did, but by phone. After that we headed back to Pilot Beach and realized that these apparently elusive penguins would not be coming out of the water till 8:40pm, it was only six and we’d been driving all day, our eventual goal being another three hours away. Ugh, I was not going to wait over two more hours for these birds to come waddling out of the water in the dark (pretty much, sunset’s around 7:45) so after checking out where their nests are located and some lazy sea lions, a sight I’m VERY used to in San Diego, on we went. We both wanted to cover more ground so we wouldn’t have so far to drive the next day. When the sun was going down I took it upon myself as navigator to check a spot called “Nugget Point” for the Yellow-Eyed penguins, since sundown seems to be the time to see these guys. Wrong again, like I said earlier they come home around 4pm and are in their nest by dark, one couldn’t even get to the beach at this spot and the only viewing was from the cliffs above, and it was pretty much dark. I had Dera’s fancy HD night vision video camera but it wasn’t strong enough for that distance, so after 15 or so minutes, to my dismay, we bailed... stupid penguins. 18 more kilometers inland was the Owaka YHA, our accommodations for the night and the most desolate hostel I’ve ever seen. Dera immediately compared it to the hotel from “The Shining” due to fact that it was quite large & old, had long hallways and a ridiculously huge kitchen. The clerk was drunk as hell when we got there and after handing us our key disappeared, leaving us to our ghostly imaginations. We cooked some noodles, played with facebook and eventually got tired enough to pass out.

The next morning we were up early and in the car, gassing up in this small village and on the road through the Catlin’s National Park. After 30 minutes or so we came out of the fog to a beautiful day, the first truly clear day we’ve had since arriving in New Zealand, and we arrived at Matai Falls. I wasn’t sure if we were going to see these but the map said the trailhead was on the road we were driving and when we arrived the sign said it was only 30 minutes out and back, so on we went. They were nice falls, truly woodsy falls reminiscent of where I grew up in Pennsylvania, but with more ferns. One thing New Zealand has a lot of is ferns, seems to grow like ivy in the northeast of chaparral in the southwest. Our next stop was Curio Bay, an area known for its… wait for it… Yellow-Eyed Penguins! Have I mentioned they’re the rarest in the world and 3rd largest? Anyway it was morning so no chance of seeing these little fuckers, but the bay is also known for its petrified forest remains. The sea washed into this area so fast during the big melt that many of the tree stumps and logs have been preserved, as Lonely Planet put it this place is a “Paleontologist’s dream” I was impressed with the surf but being the farthest south I’ve ever been figured the water was too cold to get in so we snapped some nice shots and moved on. Next we needed to check some internet and transportation stuff so into Invercargill we went, it was a nice city, the largest in the southern part of the island but mainly a launching point for trips into more remote areas. After figuring out that the bus would not get me to Queenstown Dera agreed to get me there since I had booked a Heli-Mountain Biking trip the following day. He was going to Fjordland to take advantage of the great weather and snap some pictures. When we were almost to town there was a disagreement over where the rental car we were splitting would be going so rather than duke it out we decided to jump in the lake we were next to, Wakatipu. (one is always next to some form of water in New Zealand.) The lake was cold but a great idea, after that we checked back into the Melbourne Lodge, our 3rd overnight in this hotel (which was run by Dera’s Indonesian connections) & had some KFC. I verified my trip the next day, drank a few Guiness, played with the internet and eventually made it back to our room to catch some sleep. Dera had passed out early since he was getting up before the sun to head out to the Milford Sound again.

I woke up on time and made it to the Vertigo Bike Shop early, due to a low hanging cloud our helicopter flight was postponed an hour. OK, it was looking to be a beautiful day so I figured and hour would just warm it up a bit. I came back to the shop, they hooked me up with a helmet, riding gloves & a bike, which was on the trailer, and we were off to the airport. After checking my weight (I weigh 82 Kilo’s by the way) we were strapped in for my first helicopter ride, it was awesome. The clouds we still hanging around so we had to take a longer route around and eventually through them, the pilot was cool and made some quick turns before landing on the summit of Ben Krauchan, (1900 meters) one of the main peaks in the “Remarkable Mountains” We offloaded the bikes & gear and off the chopper went, overall a quick ride (20 minutes) but well worth the money since I’d never done that before. Here I won’t go into too many details, as soon as he pointed which direction to go I went, after the first rocky section I put my iPod on and listened to Jurassic 5 & Led Zeppelin for the next three hours down the mountain . The scenery was amazing and the single-track was as challenging as anywhere I’ve ridden. I actually popped a tire about an hour in, the guide showed up with the repair kit & it was like AAA but for bikes. At that point I felt I truly got my money’s worth. When we reached the bottom another guide picked us and our bikes up for the 30 minute ride back to town – GOOD TIMES! Once back I grabbed a Fergberger, famous in Queenstown for their New Zealand beef and impressive size… it was good, better than most burgers in the states, the meat had a fresher taste & a more natural feel. Anyway, I spent some more time on the net chatting with my girlfriend, she figured out video skype so now she gets to see me and it’s free, rather than me calling her phone it’s all done through the internet. A few hours later Dera met me in the Café and we jumped in the car for Makarora, that nights’ accommodations and our launching point for the west coast and Glaciers.

A few hours’ drive through mountains and the quaint town of Wanaka, which is situated at the bottom of maybe the largest lake we’ve seen, Lake Wanaka. We ended at the Makarora Wilderness Resort, a Lonely Planet recommendation that did not disappoint! Yes we had to walk to the bathrooms and showers but we had our own A Frame with four beds, it was quiet and the bar had a semi-lively crowd which I knew would be perfect for my St. Patty’s Day celebrations the following night. After I had a few beers and a good night’s rest we got up the next day for our three hour drive north to the Franz Josef Glacier, one of the larger and easier to access glaciers in New Zealand. The drive was gorgeous through Mount Aspiring National Park and the coastal town of Haast, eventually making it to within 30 minutes of this glaciers face. It was great, the glacier has receded over the past 200 years so we were walking on the most recent destruction (for lack of a better word) of this huge block of ice. It wasn’t cold, actually kind of warm, and again there were waterfalls lining the canyon. We got within 200 meters of the ice and decided that was good, my experience with the Hooker Glacier was enough for me without crampons and our pictures from that point looked fine. Once back at the car we drove south to the Fox Glacier, a similar situation but with less people and more rocks on top. The canyon was amazing though, reminiscent of Yosemite, I thought for quite a while about whether climbers had explored these vertical walls or not, no one seemed to be on them at the moment. From there we headed to the coast, a black sand beach called Gillespies which was a nice place to visit, but I wouldn’t want to live there. (The sand flies were back with a vengeance!) From there we headed to Lake Matheson, a gorgeous walk known for its reflections of the Southern Alps, but it was slightly windy causing ripples not reflecting the mountains the way we’d heard. Also it had clouded over making the views not quite has spectacular as we’d seen that morning, it was time to start back to our A Frame. Along the way we came upon a landslide, huge boulders had tumbled onto the road and they had actually diverted traffic 3o meters around it… road construction is awesome. We stopped at Shipwreck Beach, Dera needed to stretch his legs and it looked like a nice enough place. Pristine and untouched, covered with driftwood, it was something I never see in San Diego. The sand was deep and fluffy, and the views of Fjordland to the south were amazing… the weather had cleared and it was looking like another beautiful night. From there we drove back through Mount Aspiring Nat’l Park, caught some great reddish hues off the Alps for sunset making it back to our resort in time for some minced meat pies and beers. I spent another night listening to bad karaoke but having good conversation with the locals who kept impressing upon me “don’t tell anyone” regarding their Mecca in the mountains. A nice St. Pat’s for sure, but not my best, it’s always nice to have old friends around for a holiday like that. The next morning we woke up early and brought the rental car back to Queenstown, actually saw my first rainbow over that big lake which was nice since with all the sun/rain combinations I’d been seeing, I felt due. The rental agency dropped us back off at the Melbourne Lodge, I had a nap and have been on the computer since. I think I’ll have a few beers tonight and then tomorrow we’re off to Auckland and the North Island for a few more days excitement.