Wednesday, August 26, 2026

Driving an RV Around Alaska for 10 Days

I'm going to go ahead and pick up like everyone is aware I'm still with NBC, own a home with wife Dorothy in Mira Mesa, San Diego and have been raising kids since 2011. We've done a lot, seen a lot, this is the adventure crescendo of our family so far.

And it had been a while since we took a trip that required this much planning.

Alaska is different.

It is really big, there aren't that many roads, the places you want to see aren't conveniently located next to one another and some of the things worth doing require a boat or airplane just to get there.

Our biggest tool beyond maps and imagination? AI aggregating the travel & timing details... plotting routes, RV parks, reservations, drive times, excursions and backup plans all sorted into the calendar. We had ten days with the RV and the idea was to make a big loop through a small piece of a state that is larger than most people's comprehension of geography.

As usual, Dorothy was persistent enough to make sure things actually got done and I kept it organized. We had been chipping away at the tasks for months... we work well together, especially when we're spending the much more fun to spend "vacation money."

Then in July 2026, after talking about the trip for months, the four of us finally got on an early morning flight in San Diego.

Alaska... Here we go.

Through Seattle and connecting to Anchorage, where the first major order of business was picking up the RV.

This was our first family vacation in a drivable RV, our tent-trailer was long-gone.

This thing was basically a Ford truck carrying a small apartment on its back. Kitchen, refrigerator, bathroom, shower, beds, table, storage, generator... the girl walked us around it explaining everything.

Fresh water. Gray water. Black water. Propane. Generator. Electrical hookup. Dumping the tanks. How to return it.

I listened carefully because there are few phrases capable of motivating proper procedure quite like BLACK WATER TANK.

We loaded up, luggage in the back, and headed to Walmart to stock up the cabinets before driving north.

Our first destination was Talkeetna.

I already liked the RV. There was something familiar about having everything with us. When I was younger I loved traveling with everything I needed stuffed into a backpack. There was freedom in knowing that wherever I ended up, everything I owned for the next month was sitting on my shoulders.

This was essentially the same philosophy. Except now my backpack had six tires, a refrigerator and a toilet.

I have evolved.

Talkeetna

Our first taste of the little Alaska towns I had pictured while planning this thing.

Small. Walkable. Old buildings. Local shops. Tourists mixed with people who clearly actually live there. And mountains somewhere behind all of it.

Talkeetna also has a long history as a jumping-off point for Denali expeditions, so naturally I found that interesting.

There was a time when getting that close to Denali would have immediately caused my brain to start calculating expedition costs, routes, gear and how much vacation time I could somehow manufacture.

This trip had a slightly different mission. We wandered around town, had dinner at the Denali Brewing Company, wandered near the river and eventually headed back to the RV for the night.

The next day we drove. And drove.

This would become a theme. The interesting part was that the driving never really felt like the wasted part between destinations. Alaska was the destination.

There were rivers beside the road, mountains in front of us and enormous areas where there appeared to be absolutely nothing.

Which was perfect.

Denali

We continued toward Denali National Park.

This was one of the anchors of the northern half of the trip.

Denali has always occupied a particular place in my mountain brain.

Rainier was the mountain that taught me that preparation and desire don't mean shit if the mountain decides otherwise. Years ago I spent an enormous amount of time learning glaciers, equipment, routes and weather before attempting the Kautz. I had always respected Denali as an entirely different level of that game.

This time, rather than carrying a 60-pound pack toward it, I was arriving with Dorothy and the kids in an RV.

Also acceptable haha.

We entered the park and found our campsite, backed our house into the trees and started figuring out how RV camping actually worked.

After a short hike to acclimate to our new home, Journey started a fire while we made some food. Sometime close to midnight I looked outside and it was still light. Not sunset light. The sun was down, it was still light.

Your brain absolutely refuses to accept that it's time for bed when the world outside looks like 7:30 PM.

The kids didn't seem particularly upset about this feature.

The next day I spent the morning hiking while the rest of the family cleaned up.

After lunch we boarded one of the green park buses.

There is something entertaining about taking what is essentially a school bus into six million acres of wilderness.

But that's Denali. Once the road starts heading into the park, civilization disappears quickly. Huge river valleys. Tundra. Mountains. Clouds sitting low enough that some of the peaks disappeared completely.

We got off and walked. The scale is hard to photograph because there isn't much reference. Something that looks like a little creek below you might actually be a braided river valley a mile wide.

A hill is a mountain. A mountain is a mountain range. And Denali itself can simply hide behind weather despite being 20,310 feet tall.

Pretty much the ultimate reminder that the world doesn't particularly care about your itinerary.

We saw wildlife, including a moose close enough to the road to remind everyone that a moose is considerably bigger than it appears on television. Also goats, caribou, a Grizzly and some other smaller animals I can't remember.

Back at camp we settled into another night in the RV, we were getting pretty good at this... or at least nobody had accidentally discharged the black-water tank, yet.

The next phase was the next morning after breakfast.

The long drive south.

This is where the map lies to you. You look at Alaska on a screen and think: "Okay, Denali to the Kenai Peninsula."

Then Google gives you a number of hours that makes Southern California traffic suddenly seem reasonable.

But I didn't mind. The scenery kept changing. Forest. River. Open tundra. Mountains. More mountains. Then eventually the landscape started tightening around us as we headed toward Girdwood and Turnagain Arm.

There is a section of highway down there where the mountains basically drop directly into the water.

Now we're talking.

We stopped. Walked around. Took pictures. Drove some more. Stopped again. At this point we were already acquiring an obscene amount of video.

This will surprise absolutely nobody.

When I traveled through Asia and New Zealand years ago, I wrote everything down because I knew the small details would eventually disappear. Recording seems like the best tribute... these days that problem is solved with cloud storage.

We found a place to park the RV in Girdwood, did some hiking around, ate dinner & eventually continued south to Granite Springs for the night.

We got in late, Journey was now our official firestarter so we did that, and wandered the site. Brighton and I will remember Mama's concern with the ranger carrying both a gun AND bear spray, as well as the very brown water from the well :)

The next morning after a quick moment of zen in the creek with the fly rod, we packed up and continued south toward Seward.

The drive into Seward was one of my favorites. Mountains closing in around the highway. Water beside us. Snow still hanging high above everything even though it was July.

By this point the RV was starting to feel normal. We knew where everything went, what needed to be secured before driving and which cabinet had not been properly latched based solely on the sound of shit hitting the floor behind us.

Then the road basically runs out at Resurrection Bay.

We pulled into our campground right along the water.

This was one of those RV moments where the entire concept suddenly made perfect sense.

Our hotel room was parked beside Resurrection Bay. Open the door. There's the ocean. Look across it. Mountains. Need a jacket? You're here. Need to move? Start the engine.

I was getting it.

We walked around and got some lunch/dinner, making our next plan, which was laundry. The kids took some time to rest while Mom & Dad explored the historic downtown on a Friday night.

We found an outdoor music fest of some sort, with beer!

Exactly what the doctor had ordered on our 16th wedding anniversary :)

We enjoyed a few and took in the Japanese punk band "Fine, Great" before retiring for the evening.

Tomorrow was our early morning cruise.

Kenai Fjords

Saturday morning we woke up in Seward with the RV still parked right along Resurrection Bay and headed down to the harbor for our six-hour Kenai Fjords National Park cruise.

This was one of the bigger things we'd planned before the trip, and one of those days where Alaska did exactly what Alaska was supposed to do.

The weather was gray, cold and a little wet.

We bundled up, after a few hours got on the boat, and headed out through Resurrection Bay.

Almost immediately the scenery became ridiculous. Mountains dropping directly into the ocean, waterfalls, cliffs, little islands and sea stacks sticking out of the water, snow still hanging high above us even though it was July.

And wildlife. Lots of wildlife.

Sea lions were piled onto rocks. Birds were everywhere.

Then somebody spotted a whale.

Whale watching is hilarious. Fifty people can stand on the deck staring at an enormous empty ocean for twenty minutes and then suddenly somebody yells:

"THERE!"

Everybody runs to one side of the boat. Cameras come up. Half the people take a picture of absolutely nothing.

Then—

WHOOOOSH.

Another blow.

Now everybody runs somewhere else.

Eventually we got better at it and had whales surfacing around us, including a few nice looks at tails disappearing back underwater AND saw "Bubble Net feeding," another remarkable moment seeing that huge mouth breach the surface.

Pretty damn cool.

The farther we went into Kenai Fjords, the more dramatic everything became. We passed sea lions, eagles and puffins nesting on cliffs and these rocky islands that looked like somebody had dropped them into the ocean specifically for landscape photographers.

Then we got to the glacier.

I've stood on glaciers. I've climbed on glaciers. I've slept beside glaciers.

They're still impressive.

You can see photographs of one and understand what you're looking at, but it doesn't really convey the size, or the feel of the cold emanating from the massive block.

This enormous river of ice comes down out of the mountains and ends directly in the ocean. Snow falls up there, it compresses, becomes ice, starts moving, and eventually after a process measured in hundreds or thousands of years we're sitting in a boat watching pieces of it fall into the sea.

The blue color was incredible.

Everything else around us was gray, green, black and white, and then there was this gigantic wall of blue ice.

We stayed long enough to appreciate it, take an unreasonable number of pictures and video clips, and eventually started the long ride back toward Seward.

Cold. A little wet. Completely satisfied.

Once we got back to Seward, it was time to move again.

We climbed into the RV and headed west across the Kenai Peninsula toward Kenai and K Beach Campground.

By now the RV had stopped feeling like something we'd rented and started feeling like where we lived.

We knew what had to get put away before driving. We knew what rattled. We knew which cabinet somebody forgot to latch based entirely on the noise that came from behind me the first time I turned. We knew where everything was supposed to go.

Whether it actually went there was another matter.

The drive across the peninsula was beautiful in a completely different way from Seward. Forests. Rivers. Smaller towns. Fishing everywhere.

This side of Alaska felt less dramatic than the fjords but more lived-in.

We made our way toward Kenai and eventually settled into K Beach Campground for the night.

Another campground. Another little patch of Alaska that became home for a few hours.

This is where we met Tom and Piper :)

We have a friend, Tom, who lived with me in San Diego back in 2008... he's actually mentioned in the earliest blogs. He lives in Homer now, raising his 11 year old daughter Piper.

They hauled their camper to this campground, securing the site for the both of us. We caught up while enjoying a fire and some beers.

It had been a big day so once midnight hit, sleep was easy.

Sunday — Fishing, K Beach & Homer

The next morning was our first shot at salmon fishing.

I'd wanted to catch a salmon in Alaska for years.

Not order one in a restaurant. Not buy one frozen.

Catch one, with a fly rod.

So Sunday morning we got up and went fishing, leaving the kids and wife behind to clean up and regroup.

Fishing is one of those activities where a person can perform essentially the same motion over and over again for several hours while remaining irrationally convinced that the next time is going to be completely different.

Cast. Drift. Nothing.

Cast. Drift. Nothing.

Move ten feet because clearly the problem was the fish in that exact section of river.

Cast again.

Still nothing.

It was fun, but the salmon apparently had not received my itinerary.

Tom mentioned something about the tides...

Fine ;)

So we went to lunch at Rocky's Cafe in Kasilof and had the next best thing, a salmon burger lol.

We got some food for the family and went back to the site to pack up. It was drizzling and we were ready to get back on the road south toward Homer.

Along the way we made the assorted stops that never really show up when you're planning a vacation but become part of the trip anyway. Food. Supplies. Whatever the family needed... continuing down the Sterling Highway.

Eventually the landscape started opening up and we got our first real views across Kachemak Bay, and the road ran out onto the Homer Spit.

We liked Homer immediately.

No doubt I've heard many good things, I really wanted to get along with this place.

Fishing boats. Charters. Harbor. Shops. Restaurants. Mountains across the bay. Glaciers. And enough fishing equipment around to ensure I would be distracted approximately every thirty feet.

We pulled into our campground on the Spit and once again parked the RV basically beside the water.

This was becoming the norm.

We walked around the harbor and watched sea otters floating among the boats.

Sea otters seem to have figured life out better than most of us. Float around on your back. Eat. Occasionally hold hands so you don't drift away. No email. No conference calls.

A solid system.

We explored the Spit, checked out the harbor and settled in for the night.

Because Monday morning we were doing the thing I had probably been looking forward to more than anything else on the trip.

Monday — Brooks Falls

This one had been on my list for years.

Everybody has seen it.

The giant brown bear standing at the waterfall while salmon jump upstream directly toward its mouth.

It's basically one of the defining images of Alaska.

The problem is Brooks Falls is inside Katmai National Park.

There is no road.

You don't drive there.

Which meant we needed an airplane.

Monday morning we left Homer a little differently than the average tourist, on a float plane!

A Cessna TU206G turbocharged, high-wing, single-engine bush plane. It carries up to five passengers plus the pilot, and everyone gets a window seat for the flight across Cook Inlet toward Katmai.

Honestly, the flight alone was worth doing.

Flying low over Alaska gives you an entirely different perspective on just how empty and enormous the state really is.

Mountains. Lakes. Rivers winding through wetlands. Snowfields. Volcanoes.

And almost nothing man-made.

No neighborhoods. No freeways. No strip malls. No Costco.

Just Alaska disappearing all the way to the horizon.

Eventually we landed on the water at Brooks Camp.

Before you get to wander around a place filled with giant brown bears, they give you some instruction.

Bear school.

Basically:

The bears live here. You don't. Don't run. Don't carry food around. Don't block a bear. Don't do anything stupid.

Seems reasonable.

Then we started walking.

It didn't take very long.

Bear.

Not a little dark speck on a hillside. Not something I needed a telephoto lens to prove was actually a bear.

A fucking brown bear.

Right there.

Then another one.

The weirdest part is how quickly your brain recalibrates.

Back home, seeing one bear would become the story of the week.

At Brooks Camp, after a little while you're saying:

"Oh look, another bear."

We made our way along the trail and boardwalk toward the falls.

Then suddenly the picture I'd seen for years was right in front of us.

Except there weren't one or two bears.

There were bears everywhere.

Above the falls. Below the falls. Standing in the river. Walking along the shoreline. Coming out of the trees. Fishing. Arguing over fishing spots. Stealing fish. Sitting around looking like they'd already eaten fifteen salmon and couldn't possibly be bothered anymore.

And the salmon were everywhere, the focus on the falls. We waited until the mama nearest caught one in her mouth and walked off to her cubs.

Another bear moves into the spot.

It was so incredible.

Some of the bears clearly knew exactly what they were doing. Others appeared to be using basically the same fishing technique I had used the previous morning:

Stand somewhere. Look confident. Hope eventually a fish makes a terrible decision.

There were moments with so many bears around the falls that I stopped trying to count.

I think Brighton said 27.

I've seen wildlife in a lot of places.

Nothing I've done compares to Brooks Falls.

The kids were watching. Dorothy was looking for that perfect shot. I was wandering the outskirts taking everything in.

At some point we got the family picture overlooking Brooks Falls.

Four of us smiling for the camera while giant brown bears tore salmon to pieces behind us.

Not exactly THE family portrait, but it will be a memory.

Eventually the ranger tapped me on the shoulder.

Our time there ran out.

We walked back through Brooks Camp, passed a few more bears because apparently that had become completely normal, got back into the plane and flew across Alaska toward Homer.

Mountains. Water. Clouds. Volcanoes.

Then Homer appeared beneath us and just like that we were back.

One day.

One of the best wildlife experiences I've ever had.

Probably the highlight of the trip... and when I later looked at what the vacation cost, Brooks Falls wasn't exactly difficult to find on the credit card statement.

It was expensive, but 100% worth it.

Tuesday — Anchor River

It was time to go fishing again.

The salmon had gotten away with it on Sunday.

Today was going to be different.

At least that's what fishermen tell themselves.

The goal was a King Salmon.

Catching one in Alaska had been on my bucket list for a long time.

There are certain things where the location is part of the experience.

Catching a King Salmon somewhere is cool.

Catching one in Alaska?

That's the point.

So we went back out, to a pool Tom has known to be successful.

More casting. More waiting. Tom hooked one... and Journey was in the mix with a spinner from the shore.

Then eventually...

Fish on.

And this time the salmon didn't win.

My first King Salmon... and in Alaska.

Bucket list item: CHECK.

I caught this fucking thing in Alaska.

Mission accomplished.

We didn't hang out much longer, it started to rain and we were getting hungry. Tom did catch another but none were keepers in that river at that time of year.

Catch and release was fine by me, killing that monster seemed like the next level, which can wait till next time.

Once back the family went for a walk to check out otters for maybe our last time, and have a nice seafood dinner.

After we hung out with Tom & Piper at the campground, our last night in Homer was bittersweet. We loved our friends but we really missed our beds and dog.

We were so close.

Tom, Dot & I hit up the Salty Dog for a few drinks and eventually we had to call it a night.

Tomorrow was departure day.

Wednesday — Back Toward Anchorage

Wednesday morning it was finally time to start pointing the RV back north.

This is the part of every vacation I hate.

At the beginning, ten days sounds like forever.

Then somewhere near the end your brain starts doing math.

Three days left.

Two nights.

Tomorrow we return the RV.

Flight leaves at...

Once I start calculating the remaining hours, the trip has begun ending.

We went to visit Tom & Piper, a stop to see their place and say one last goodbye...

I will be back friend.

Then continued back to Homer for lunch, an hour later starting the long drive toward Anchorage.

No one was really talking anymore, it had been a long time together and discussions of "what if we..." started to happen.

More of the Sterling Highway. More Kenai Peninsula. More scenery that we were somehow becoming accustomed to even though objectively it was still ridiculous.

The original thought was to stop at Willow Creek Campground.

We got there.

Alaska had other plans.

Too rainy.

We wandered around for a minute and then made an excuse that we wanted to hit the store.

After more than a week in the RV we'd dealt with plenty of weather, but there comes a point when voluntarily sitting around a soaking-wet campground loses some appeal.

So we opted for Plan B, something we had already researched.

You see, we didn't have a plan for the 12 hours in Anchorage between returning the RV and a timely arrival at the airport.

So that night we traded the RV for something that felt almost foreign at this point:

An actual house.

An Airbnb in Anchorage, we secured for two nights due to our weird 12:55am departure time.

Walls that didn't move. A normal bathroom. Separate rooms. A refrigerator that stayed level. An actual kitchen. TV. Wifi.

Luxury.

The kids were actually surprised :)

I thrived being able to take my time and spread out all over the street/sidewalk to unpack and prep the RV for return the next morning.

Thursday — Anchorage & Goodbye RV

Thursday was our last full day in Alaska.

Dorothy and I woke up early, the kids definitely needed sleep... now came the inevitable task:

Returning the RV.

Ten days earlier I had picked this thing up and spent the first few miles very aware that I was driving a giant rental vehicle containing my entire family and several tanks of substances I preferred not to think about.

Now it felt completely normal.

I knew exactly where it fit in the lane. I knew how it accelerated. I knew how it stopped. I knew which noises were normal. I knew which noise meant somebody had once again failed to secure a cabinet.

It had become ours.

Not legally.

Cruise America would have had some issues with that interpretation.

But it had been home.

Talkeetna. Two nights in Denali. Granite Springs. Seward. Kenai. K Beach. Homer.

Hundreds of miles of Alaska.

Campfires. Meals. Wet clothes. Shoes everywhere. Kids sleeping feet away. Different scenery outside the same windows every day.

Then we pulled into the rental place.

Tanks dumped. Everything emptied. Bags out. Keys handed over.

Our home was just somebody else's RV again.

That felt strange, but good.

It was a huge responsibility and I was over it.

We walked about two miles back to the condo, stopping to buy a few things on the way back. We had twelve hours to kill, pack and eat were the priorities.

Around 11pm, we took an Uber to the airport.

Our Alaska trip was essentially over.

Friday — Home

Very early Friday morning we flew out of Anchorage.

Seattle.

Then San Diego.

And eventually:

Dog. Home. Normal life.

Just like that, Alaska changed categories.

For months it had been something in the future. Something we were researching, planning, booking, changing, looking forward to.

Then for ten days we were inside it.

And now it was something we'd done.

A little while later, because apparently I cannot simply take a vacation and leave it alone, I went through what the whole thing actually cost.

Flights. Ten days with the RV. Campgrounds. Gas for a vehicle whose aerodynamics were approximately equivalent to a Home Depot storage shed. Food. Kenai Fjords. Fishing. The floatplane to Katmai. Brooks Falls. Everything.

The final number wasn't small.

Alaska is not a cheap family vacation.

Shocking revelation.

But what surprised me when I looked back through everything wasn't really how much we'd spent.

It was how little of it I regretted.

The RV was transportation and lodging, sure, but it was also a huge part of the trip itself. For ten days that thing was our house.

Talkeetna. Two nights in Denali. Granite Springs. Seward. Kenai. Homer.

Same beds. Same refrigerator. Same shoes and clothes all over the place.

Different view every time we opened the door.

Could I probably build a spreadsheet showing a rental car and some hotels would have been cheaper?

Probably.

But that wouldn't have been the same trip.

Brooks Falls was expensive too.

Very expensive.

But there's also no road to Brooks Falls.

If you want to stand there with your family watching twenty-something brown bears tear apart salmon in front of you, eventually somebody is going to hand you a credit card machine next to a floatplane.

Andrei was worth it.

When I started Living The Dream in 2008, money and time were already something I thought about differently.

Mostly because I didn't have much money.

I was already in debt and somehow decided the appropriate response was to spend even more of it traveling around the world.

I am still not recommending this as a financial strategy.

But underneath some pretty questionable math was an idea I still believe.

Time is worth more than money.

I'm just much more interested now in knowing exactly how much the time cost me.

When I started this blog, the whole concept was "To Do BEFORE Obtaining Real Responsibility."

At the time I honestly thought there was a window.

No wife. No children. No mortgage. No stable career.

Freedom.

And eventually those other things would show up and the window would close.

So I went.

I traveled. I climbed. I wandered. I spent money I probably shouldn't have spent. I filled my life with as much as I could before "real life" began.

Then real life showed up.

Dorothy. Kids. House. Career. Responsibility.

And eighteen years later the four of us were driving an RV around Alaska.

So obviously I didn't understand that part quite as well as I thought I did.

The kids are getting older now too. There will probably come a summer when nobody can just disappear for ten days because Dad spent six months stuffing an Alaska trip into a calendar.

Journey and Brighton will have their own jobs, friends, trips and plans.

That's life.

So I'm glad we did this one now.

I'm glad Journey became the firestarter.

I'm glad Brighton and I got to laugh about Mama being concerned that the ranger needed both a gun AND bear spray.

I'm glad Dorothy kept looking for the perfect bear picture.

I'm glad Tom and Piper met us along the way.

I'm glad we froze on the Kenai Fjords boat.

I'm glad we saw the bubble-net feeding.

I'm glad we flew across Cook Inlet in a little Cessna.

I'm glad we watched a mother bear catch a salmon and carry it back to her cubs.

I'm glad I caught my first King Salmon.

I'm glad we ended one night having drinks with an old friend at the Salty Dog.

And I'm glad I recorded way too much of it.

Because that's basically what all these trips eventually become anyway.

Stories. Pictures. Videos.

And little things you didn't realize were important until years later when something reminds you of them.

In December 2008 I defined Living the Dream as:

Going to the greatest places you can imagine, not letting anything get in your way & doing it right when you get there.

Almost eighteen years later...

I think it still holds up.





Saturday, September 27, 2025

LTD, since Blogspot

I have to apologize to any followers, the last image I left up is terrible.
For over 10 years just that ugly shot of my poison ivy arm. 

If you don't already know, most of my life has been on instagram
 
Feel free to catch up there while I figure out if I'm going to update this with certain missing elements and potentially creating new content related to forgotten concerts .. 

Also here's our dog Winnie :)

Monday, January 20, 2014

Poison Oak, 50 Days of Hell

Today is the five-year anniversary of the Asian Reemergence (you'll understand after reading this)

This post is an excerpt from my blog about Korea in early 2009, I wasn't exactly Living the Dream.

I expanded on that blog when asked by some good friends (Eman & Jablow) about how bad it actually was. The below text was an email to them, but because of the interest and experience involved, I've decided to publish it as a stand-alone short story.. please enjoy, and don't despair, I'm OK now.








I don't think the pics tell the entire story, so here it is...

December 9, 2008: I went to a friends land in Mendocino County after I got laid off, when I got there my bro mentioned that I could assist in the clearing of an old logging road. With my recent life changes this seemed like the perfect outlet for any frustrations I might feel, so we busted out the Chainsaw, clippers, machetes, and cleared some 40 year old brush. We spent two days doing it and made a damn fine road if I do say so myself. Each Day I scrubbed like crazy after being in "it" for a few hours, but "it" ended up in patches all over my body & within two days my eyes looked like I had been sprayed with mace - puffy to the point where they were constantly watering, and bloodshot because I hadn't slept for almost 50 hours.

I know I get "it" bad, but I was oblivious the first few days & my normal medication (prednisone) was back in San Diego, while I was on a farm an hour from anywhere.

After day four my eyes got better but my arm got worse, like the individual tendrils of oak had been wrapped around it... I'm pretty sure they were. I had just gotten laid off was taking all of my frustrations out by just ripping at the various vegetation that had taken the road back, not really paying attention to exactly where these leafless vines came in contact with exposed skin.

December 17... POISON OAK IS EVIL! You see, I used to get poison ivy pretty bad as a kid, and had gotten some cases of poison oak since living in Cali, so I wasn't too worried. But it kept getting worse, on the 5th day I had to drive a friend to the San Francisco airport and my right forearm was oozing puss, yeah, I know, nasty. I was disgusted as was he, I could barely sleep since it actually hurt as well as itched. I'd never had it this bad, there were blisters on blisters the size of a quarter all over my arm, I had to keep it wrapped just to move in public but that just compounded the problem since the oak (or ivy) likes fresh air in order to dry, and heal. That night we met up with some friends in the city (DJ Mikey Lixxx & his girl) and I proceeded to drink as many Long Island Iced Teas as I could just so I could get a good nights sleep.

Woke up the next morning and it had gotten even worse, my entire arm was a blister, so I went to St Francis' Emergency Room in downtown San Fran, where they were even amazed/repulsed/confused - so I told them I needed a steroid shot, as well as pills, which is how we used to treat it when I was a kid. They obliged, thank god, and told me to see a skin graft specialist since my arm would probably never look the same again, I laughed and said that although this is bad, I have no doubts that it will dry up and heal with minimal scarring. (It has, by the way) I then hit up the pharmacy for some Valium, 600 mg Ibuprofen & Prednisone (that magical steroid that's really bad for us but seems to be the only thing that ever works) -- I was on my way to recovery, after a night in Mill Valley at another old friends house I picked up Dorothy at the airport and went back to NorCal for some R & R.


By the 22nd we were driving home & it was drying up, YIPPEE! I felt way better and other than the fact that I was shedding skin things seemed to be looking up.

Around Christmas I had run out of the pills they had given me, yet I still had a few patches on various parts of my body. Luckily years ago I had made a run to Mexico to pick those magic pills up for a situation just like this, so I took more. I knew I was coming to Korea and the last thing I wanted to do was deal with this there, so I made an appointment with my doctor for January 5th. I told him my story & he told me to put some aloe on it... I did, for 3 days and it was still sticking around. WTF, so I called him and he gave me yet another' script for prednisone. It's January 8th, I leave for Seoul on the 14th. I took it and honest to god it was gone. I had a few random dry patches on my arm but it was really gone, and I was happy since this was the last thing I wanted to deal with abroad.

So now it's January 17, I'm in Korea going to a Jimjilbang, which is a Korean bathhouse/sauna. This was killer, many different temperatures of hot pools, cold pools, western style (stand up) showers, eastern style (sitting) - a sweat lodge, different styles of Sauna, some just plain hot, some thick with Eucalyptus. The floors in Korea are heated so people would just lie wherever, I guess if your into it one can just pass out here for the night in a quiet corner. The actual Jimjilbang is co-ed and seems to be where families or couples go for a night to eat, and get massages or whatever. There's also a gym and all the spa amenities that any girl who reads this is used to, I wasn't so familiar. Now it gets strange again, Jono wanted to get a scrub: for like 8 bucks some dude in the bathhouse will scrub you with a rough loofah to strip your dead skin off, supposedly this is very healthy and effective. So we did it. It was like a massage, except rougher, faster, and a little painful. We were obviously smoother when it was all over, I think I lost a significant amount of lower leg hair, but in the end (we were there for like six hours) we were incredibly relaxed & rested.

Two days later (it's January 19) I'd traveled to southern Korea for a look at the more "rural" side of this Asian country, and I'm realizing the "scrub" had after-effects... It brought the poison oak back! Yeah, really, my right arm is blistered again and my lower legs are covered, I noticed it on Sunday and hoped it was just a fluke, hoped I had enough of that damn steroid in my system to clear it out. Nope, it's now right back where I was on day three or four (Dec 14th) - where the hell do I go in Korea to get this treated? How do I explain it? I called Dorothy to send me the remaining pills I have at home and it's Sunday there, Monday's MLK Day and there's no mail, so the soonest she can get them out is Tuesday which means I see them maybe Thursday?!?!? WTF, I need an ancient "Korean" secret or something. After some research we figured out the shipping would take even longer because prescriptions need to clear customs... fuck, I had no idea where I would be since by that point I was traveling to Hong Kong, Macau AND back to Kowloon.

To sum up, on January 21 I found a pill when I got back to Seoul that seemed to help, it stabilized it so it never made it back to that magnitude. Then I found a Pharmacy in Hong Kong on January 28, the pharmacists can prescribe medication, I got an even stronger steroid and watched it go away rapidly. It didn't fully clear up till Feb 5, I remember because I was looking for the "oak" as I was scratching mosquito bites when I was going back to Bangkok at the end of my time in Thailand.

I hope you enjoyed that, I didn't and now don't go anywhere without that powerful steroid, just in case.

Monday, January 28, 2013

An Extended Layover in Ethiopia

GETTING THERE
It wasn’t necessarily one of my life's goals to see Ethiopia... But the best fare to Kilimanjaro International was on Ethiopian Airlines, they had us laid-over in their capital city, Addis Ababa, so we extended it to four days thinking that another passport stamp from an African nation would make a nice addition to the adventure.
Traveling there spanned three calendar days, departing Lindbergh Field on a Saturday night red-eye to Dulles International. We had a six hour layover here where we enjoyed our last overpriced American airport food for three weeks, and a bloody mary. Eventually we checked-in, said one more goodbye to our loved ones and boarded the crowded plane to East Africa. That flight took off late morning Sunday, and after crossing the prime meridian landed about 8am on a rainy Monday.

Our entrance was smooth with one exception, my passport was pretty much full. I noticed this after checking in for the first flight and knew it might become a problem - in the past I’d spoken with other travelers who had dealt with this complication and now I was faced with the same dilemma...  I had to do some fast talkin’ convincing the customs officials to just take my $20 visa fee and figure out an open spot to stamp.

I GOT IN, but knew Tanzania would be another bridge I’d just cross when I got there. My passport still had extra pages, but not the official visa pages each countries state departments require. We collected the baggage and made our way through a few more checkpoints on the way outside.

A driver was waiting for us, a service that came with the Boutique style hotel we reserved. After 15 minutes we arrived at the “Lion’s Den,” checked in and unpacked... it had been 35 hours since we began, and I needed some fresh clothes before we set out to explore Addis.

DAY 1
We took off on foot a few hours later, it had been raining on and off so we took advantage of a break in the weather. Destination unclear, we walked away from the chaos we had driven through uphill towards where we hoped we'd find a public market. The streets were active with mid-day traffic and we were careful to stay clear of passing vehicles... the border between the roads and sidewalks was blurred, luckily we stuck out like sore thumbs being the only caucasians.

Or perhaps that made us a target... 15 minutes later Jablow had already made a friend, and this random “student” was inviting him to some sort of gathering. I quickly lied that we were in front of our destination, dodged into that random restaurant & we both decided to backtrack to a Radisson we'd passed for a beer. That “student” could have been attempting a scam we’d both read about in literature we’d received from our travel agency. The “gathering” may have been some festivities that, at the end of which, we would have been handed a bill for services rendered... Like I said, we’d JUST read about it in a doc titled “Practical Info for Visiting Ethiopia” so we weren’t taking any chances. Also, the language barrier was getting to be a bit much, verbally I had prepared for Swahili, not Amharic, so it was time for some western hospitality.

An hour later we felt replenished having each enjoyed a local brew, and were now utilizing the hotel concierge to secure a car to the Shiro Meda Market. We were looking for a few supplies, maybe some dry-food for the trek. Our driver zipped through Addis passing us a nickel tour along the way, and 20 minutes later we were driving through the market wondering if we had found what we were looking for. The driver dropped us at the far end and we proceeded on foot investigating the vendors and storefronts.


Produce, textiles, used electronics and clothing... no sun-hats, no sunglasses and no knives, we had been there less than 15 minutes and we were ready to take off. We found another cab and started back, stopping briefly a few minutes in to snag a pair of sunglasses from a street vendor I noticed as we were exiting.

We were leaving at 9am the next day for our “Safari.” Today was about people watching and our excursion had given us plenty including a view of the high security U.S. Embassy and the palace grounds.. another short ride and we were back at the Lion’s Den. We checked our email and sat down in the restaurant for a late lunch... I’d been looking forward to this local fare and it did not disappoint!




The bread (injera) and spiced meats (tibs) were perfect, we had ordered several dishes and our table was full. Some of it was spicy and some was crunchy, there’s no utensils and no napkins... the injera does it all. So much food we couldn’t finish, we took it to go, it was time to sleep now that we’d finally gotten some exploring out of our systems. Jet lag was setting in...

We woke up late, probably 9pm, and found a greek restaurant nearby. I knew I needed more sleep so we found a place with beer to wind back down for the evening. A little food and some shots to help us relax, we drank ouzo since that seemed to be a local fave. After an hour we were the last patrons in the lounge, and it was time to retire... tomorrow was going to be a huge day so we made our way back to the hotel where I spent time skyping with my wife and son before turning in. I was enjoying every minute near wireless internet, in the AM we would be leaving modern civilization for 48 hours, and then another day in Addis, and then who knows what in Tanzania... and then Kilimanjaro.

DAY 2
My sleep was good, or at least comfy - we both showered and packed before motivating down the stairs for breakfast. After an omelette with some fantastic coffee we “checked” our bags with the front desk and met Abay from Abeba Tours. This guy seemed cool and was in charge of our sweet Landcruiser, his shades reminiscent of Kanye ;) So far he seemed a little more urban than the bushmaster tour-guide we were expecting. Our backpacks were loaded and I jumped in the backseat ready for the several hour drive down to the plains of the Great Rift Valley.

When we planned this trip it seemed easy, book a driver to the nearest National Park - it was around 130 miles, so in California speak that’s under two hours - yeah, no. I was wrong, the roads here are horrible.

construction of an overpass

Mix that with obnoxious (but apparently normal) AM traffic and constant construction (in Ethiopias defense, evidence of their investment in infrastructure was everywhere), we now have the ingredients for a very slow departure.

We took the next few hours to people watch, Ethiopia was much more modern than I expected - everyone had smart phones and seemed in a hurry.



Apparently so in a hurry that rather than remove the bus it has become an add-on to this marketplace :) (Removing it looked like it would cause more harm than good)
We spoke a bit about the economic environment, Abay explained that although still in the developmental stages, Ethiopia’s independence has allowed them to outsource road construction to the Chinese - they’re scrambling to keep up with the rest of the world utilizing the aid money that has trickled in over the years. We continued down and out of Addis, as we did the structures became farther apart and the climate less damp - I was feeling the elevation change and starting to understand from the maps exactly how big Ethiopia is.. as we drove we learned from Abay about the various native Ethiopians and what parts of the country they called home. We were starting to see people garbed in traditional tribal attire and noticed the way they utilize modern construction with timeless mechanics.

Horse Drawn Truck Bed
From crowded city to hot plains we got a great feel for the geography of central Ethiopia.

Overturned Tanker Truck; Locals salvaging fuel before it's lost to the dry earth
As we drove through the farmland on the “Road to Djibouti” (this roads final destination, and Ethiopia’s primary port over ten hours away) we saw native herds of cows, camels & vultures.

Interesting Hyena | Unfortunately Roadkill
I’m gonna guess three hours since Addis, we were ready for a rest stop. Abay requested our dietary preferences, we let him know we were hoping he’d surprise us & he parked at an outdoor grill-style cafe in the village of Adama.



“Tibs & Injera” again, which was just fine. Beef & pork with fresh spices & bread as the utensil/napkin, we scarfed it down... this cuisine was still new, and the eating style neat - I was about to order a second helping but made the mistake of visiting the restroom:



Yeah, that’s a little piece of poo paper on the ground, what you can’t see is the abundance of flies buzzing my extremities. Pit style toilets are gross enough, this one smelled like it looked and I was happy I only had to pee.

That was our last stop in civilization, the road cleared up and the settlements mostly homesteads constructed of earth and straw... it was evident that these people lived off the land. The only interaction a majority had was selling charcoal in bags from the side of the road to the truckers driving by. The road took us on a detour, apparently the road was washed out every “winter” by the rising waters - of course the Landcruiser was fine off-pavement, and after several hours on public roads we appreciated that not every travel agency maintains such classy rides.



We arrived at the main gate, Abay paid the park fees and an armed guard/park ranger assumed the navigator role. Abay had been here before but this guy knew the Awash National Park - of course our first question was about the gun... initially I thought maybe it was for a lion? Nope, the natives are literally restless.?.! In desperation they may attack an unarmed vehicle for their water. Oh and we’re not allowed to take these nomads picture, at least not without permission and it didn’t seem like our guides were up for a conversation anytime soon.



The ranger started pointing out native life: dik-diks (A fat blue pheasant-like creature); warthogs;



several species of birds.. and then more people! These bush-nomads that were collecting wood but carrying rifles. We were no longer in Cali, lethal weapons were being carried freely for provisions, protection, and probably some more reasons as well.
We drove on, determined for the hot springs in the northern part of the park, the road itself was pretty beat-up and exactly the type of terrain we hoped to cross on our day-trip to the bush. The scenery was like out of a movie, every shade providing Acacia Tree protected various wildlife from the afternoon sun, and every water crossing was littered with tracks from that same wildlife making a pit-stop for water.



After an hour and a half on a road that had obviously not been upgraded by the Chinese, we drove through a family of warthogs and parked amongst some huts labeled as campsites on the park map. There were residents, our guides labeled them as students possibly with a science background - regardless they had settled in for the long-term and welcomed the loaves of bread and soda the ranger had loaded up back at the gate.

Abay and I
Next was a 600 meter walk through a field that the warthogs and cattle used for grazing. There were piles of poop everywhere; Poop, once warmed from the afternoon sun, was liquefying and mixing with the meadow-swamp tributaries. These “rivlets” of brown were flowing towards us from the hot springs. We hopped from rock to rock hoping each step was solid, I was dressed for a swim wearing the wrong footwear.



Poop Skipping

Eventually we entered a palm grove, the trail closed in to a path and the streams became larger (clearer) creeks - we were approaching the springs, good thing cause I had broken a sweat and was ready for a good soak.


It was HOT! At least 110 degrees (fahrenheit) - and it was deep... and I was realizing exactly how far we were from reality, AND I had no idea what creatures might live in or near this oasis. I wasn’t panicking but I was very aware that our trust in these two gentlemen, except for today’s conversations, was completely from an African website who’s been smart enough to maintain a positive online presence.

So here we are in the heart of Africa: two white guys stripped down to our boxers, skin bright pink from getting cooked in an Ethiopian spring, two hours from a paved road and who knows how far from a phone, hours from an embassy, hanging out with two locals- one carrying an AK-47 and the other looks like Kanye West. The ranger may have sensed my skepticism and jumped in after me.


And after maybe 30 minutes of taking a dip and drying off we laced up and started back, not as eager this time. We were enjoying the scenery and shade before we were once again in the truck for the ride back.


The 30 km back to the gate went fast, we saw more wildlife (including several turtles and a land tortoise!) and actually interacted with the aborigines by passing them our leftover water. They seemed polite and intrigued - as were we, the most notable thing was the way they dressed: I saw several women wearing “bebe” brand tops but then gowned with some sort of ceremonial wrap, barefoot and carrying bundles of wood on makeshift hats. It seems that Africa gets the worlds surplus of textiles, and puts them to good use... modern tailoring might have a few advantages.

We made it back to the park entrance as the sun was starting to set, and continued on toward the central part of the part. It was time for a “Game Drive” - right away it did not disappoint, the area we were in was known for the antelope and oryx.



Oryx
They were comfortable around the vehicles, and politely posed while we focused our zoom lenses.

Awash National Park borders the Awash River, which is known for it’s tremendous waterfalls. On our way to the Awash Falls Lodge we stopped by an encampment on a precipice and took in the Awash Gorge - another lovely reminder of exactly how big Africa is, and how small we are in comparison.

Awash Gorge
About 20 minutes later we parked inside the entrance of the lodge, checked in, said our goodbyes (Abay would be back to pick us up in the AM) and freshened up before dinner. The room was fine, rustic but clean with an actual toilet.


It was getting dark so we donned our headlamps and made our way to dinner. Our path meandered along a cliff, the entire “resort” overlooked the falls, the noise and mist combined into a magical byproduct. We were careful, tomorrow we would have time to explore, it was time for refreshment.

Dinner was a group experience, every guest gathered on chairs and couches surrounding a central fire pit, we immediately ordered beers and the most basic entrees. (We’d had enough authentic cuisine for one day, chicken and pasta would be fine) After dinner we were offered coffee, which we found out later was served in a style reminiscent of a traditional Coffee Ceremony. Guessing it's performed nightly for the lodges guests.


She roasted the beans over charcoal, served these small espresso cups full of the rich dark liquid, and then used that same pan to pop some very unique tasting corn. It was a fun experience which we complemented with a lemon Ouzo nightcap. I made sure not to finish the wonderful coffee as I was hoping for sleep, and was looking forward to the sounds of water lulling me to dreamland.

DAY 3
I woke up to an empty cabin, apparently Jabs had motivated early. I lazed in bed still reading various literature I’d acquired in preparation of Kilimanjaro. Eventually I pulled my shoes on and began a search for my friend.

First Monkey Sighting

I snapped a bunch of pics of that guy, he was the 1st monkey I’d seen in Africa - we had been warned that several species abounded and we should make sure the doors are locked from these crafty animals.


I walked towards the falls and from an overlook I spotted my roommate, sitting on a rock near where the two falls landings joined together. I snapped a few pics and made my way down.

After appreciating the sheer immensity of those cascades for a few minutes we decided to embark on a small hike/adventure down a trail that followed the river from the falls. We had been warned about wildlife and being near a river, I was on the lookout for an alligator.


About 15 minutes in, after we’d seen so many varieties of birds and a family of monkeys jumping from rock to rock across the river, I saw something large from the corner of my eye jump into the river! I’ll never know if that was the wild alligator I had been hoping to see, and I think that’s close enough. We continued into the jungle, the trail was still clear and we were hoping to wrap around to the backside of the resort.

Eventually we came to a gentle slope up and noticed footprints in the soft scree, this was our path. After another 10 minutes we crested the ridge and followed an old road in the direction we guessed was the lodge. We saw something move in a clearing up ahead, and there was a fire with multiple children stumbling around in the vicinity? There was a man feeding the flames, our guess: the morning garbage burn, and the stumbling children? Baboons! So many I didn’t count, plenty, bare-assed long snouted baboons, and one was carrying a baby!


They got pretty close and obviously weren’t afraid of humans. Their whole draw was that garbage burn and whatever they could snag from it when that human wasn’t paying attention. After some time we continued on, as did the baboons, our next discovery was an ostrich enclosure - it was feeding time and the ranch-hand was busy chasing off the baboons from the trough he’d just filled.


This was the resort boundary, our last stop looked like a staging area for the revolution complete with a lookout tower - Africa was definitely a different world, SJ pointed out that a guard had perched over the front gate through the night with another AK, hmmm. I know what they’re defending, but I’m not sure what from. From this vantage our bearings were clear.


The resort and our room was nearby, amongst the bush overlooking several waterfalls.


We made our way to the restaurant and found the coolest covered alcove to enjoy breakfast in


it had spectacular views of the falls that took a backseat to the meal, I was famished and liked the crepesand coffee so much I ordered seconds!


We wrapped things up and made our way back to the room to clean up and get packed, it was approaching 10am, checkout time - our cue to jump back in the Landcruiser with Abay and make our way back. He verified that we were still OK with the pit-stop at the mineral springs that was mentioned in the original itinerary, which we were, so after a small delay when a herd of camels was blocking us from the main road - we were heading back towards Addis.

About two hours later we were driving through the Sodere Resort Hotel gate just outside of Adama, Ethiopia, once again chasing hot water - this time in the form of showers, and maybe a pool. The atmosphere was relaxed, although I did notice we were the only two caucasians once again, this spot was only known by locals.. we were getting turned on to some locals only shit, or so it seemed.

The moment we parked I had the camera ready, the monkey’s were obnoxious here!


Immediately taking up residence on our truck, we pulled on our trunks once again for another dip. What happened next was weird, I’m not gonna lie.

The men and women are separated, we were ushered towards the left, around a series of corners and down some stairs... This is what it was:


Six metal pipes protruding from the wall, the farthest being the hottest. Men would wander in with a bar of soap, their speedos and a towel, and bathe. Men and boys were sitting down in there, but there were no seats. We turned ourselves pink once again and made our way out, abstaining from the public pool - we were hungry and starting to get anxious over the next leg of our trip to Tanzania.

We stopped in Mojo for lunch, vegetarian today. Like everywhere, religion is a big part of Ethiopian culture. We had been speaking with Abay off an on about the subject, and knew he was Orthodox, which was the largest religion in the country. On Wednesdays they abstain from meat, and we were happy to oblige our host and enjoy Ethiopian vegetarian.


A few hours later we arrived in Addis, paid our tab with the tour company & wrapped up our road-trip with some souvenir shopping under dreary conditions. (it had been raining up here in the mountains) We made our way back to the Lions Den, unloaded the truck & said our goodbyes to Abay. 


We were beat, some food was in order before we verified our bags were packed for tomorrow morning's departure. I spent the last few hours that night speaking to my family, this was the longest I had been away from my son & wife and I wasn't sure what the online conditions would be in Arusha. I missed them both.

The next morning we woke up, showered, packed, scarfed down breakfast and caught one last Lion's Den shuttle to the airport... It was time to meet Jono and go to Tanzania! 

CLICK HERE if you haven’t already, and want to continue reading about our trip to Kilimanjaro's summit, and back.